May 20, 2019: Bethlehem: Church of the Nativity

We made a short drive to Bethlehem to visit the Church of the Nativity, which tradition says was built over the place where Jesus was born. The history of these churches built over holy sites is incredibly complex, with many different incarnations through the centuries. The great builder and mother of Emperor Constatine, St. Helena, commissioned the first church on this spot in the 4th century. Some of what is there now dates to the 6th century. 

We had to duck through a three-foot high entranceway to enter the church, the Door of Humility.

Where we waited in a long line for about and hour and a half to get to the birth area.

Crusader-era painting of saints on the pillars.



Between the line and the somewhat garish interior, I didn't find the Church of the Nativity to be particularly edifying. It is so unlike the place described in the gospel stories of Jesus's birth. A few years ago, I read Jesus: A Pilgrimage by Fr. James Martin. It was the book that made me want to visit the Holy Land. Fr. Martin had the same reaction to the Church of the Nativity as I did. It was, he said, "a spiritual challenge to maintain a reverent attitude" among the crowds.

Underneath the altar is the place--the Nativity Grotto--where tradition says Jesus was born.

Here is a postcard photo of the same spot as the previous picture, without the crowd.

Underneath the altar where. . .

. . . the star marks the birth spot of Jesus, fully human, fully divine, which was likely in a cave.

Wonder-Counselor, God-Hero, Father-Forever, Prince of Peace: 

we bless you for the gift of your great light.

May all the world rejoice in your coming, O Savior and Lord,

who live and reign with the Father in the unity of the Holy Spirit,

one God, for ever and ever.

Amen.

Geri, a fellow pilgrim, prays over the star.

The Nativity Grotto without the crowd.

Pilgrims, Stop Yourselves before the Infant

The grace which was revealed in our world is Jesus, born of the Virgin Mary, true man and true God. He has entered our history; he has shared our journey. He came to free us from darkness and to grant us light. In him was revealed the grace, the mercy, and the tender love of the Father: Jesus is Love incarnate. He is not simply a teacher of wisdom, he is not an ideal for which we strive while knowing that we are hopelessly distant from it. He is the meaning of life and history, who has pitched his tent in our midst.

                                                         Pope Francis

Up in the courtyard of the Church of the Nativity.

For many of us, the most moving part of our visit to the Church of the Nativity was singing Silent Night in the Nativity Grotto.